Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Day 5

Day 5: Trip to North Korea border

As the new day dawns, we have devotions and get breakfast, then head down to the bus that will take us to the North Korean border. I am brimming with anticipation. This is the day when I will finally be able to physically see the land and hopefully the people I am called to minister to. The trip is long and bumpy but part of the journey is along the Tumen River which divides China from North Korea. We reach the river and I get a little jolt in my heart when I look across and see the land of North Korea for the first time. I continue to stare out the window as we drive along the river, taking in the bare and treeless hills and mountains, the fields of grains, and the occasional building. Then, unexpectedly, we pull off on the side of the road at what looks like abandoned farm buildings. Pastor Jeon, who has accompanied us, tells us he knows of this place. We walk down a dirt road which ends up leading to a bridge going out across the Tumen River. The bridge is filled with rotten cobs of corn and broken and cracked in several places and halfway across, comes to an abrupt end, with a gap of about 100 meters separating it from the other section on the North Korean side. I am told that the bridge was bombed by the Americans during the Korean War to keep Chinese soldiers from using it to keep the North Koreans supplied. We all stand at the end of the bridge and stare across the divide at this mysterious land nicknamed the “Hermit Kingdom”. Soon, we see some men coming out of the house on the riverbank. I am thrilled! We also spot a transport truck full of what we think must be field workers driving along the opposite riverbank road. Richard takes pictures of the land and the men and our team standing on the bridge. But then, we hear shouting. The men are shouting at us from the house in Korean. Pastor Daniel says “They are saying not to take pictures, so we better go.” I keep looking back as we walk, trying to capture that view in my memory. Later I find out that where we had stood on the bridge was technically North Korea because the bridge extends over the line in the Tumen River that separates China and North Korea. So now I can tell my friends “well, technically I have been in North Korea”.

We arrive at a town called Hunchun and have a delicious lunch of bibimbab there. In no time, we’re off again to another destination, this time to a spot along the Tumen that is very narrow and very famous. After stopping to take pictures and purchase snacks, we clamber aboard the rough riding bus and continue on to the final destination. The spot we are heading to is the place where the Chinese, Russian, and North Korean borders meet. When we FINALLY reach the military post after what seems like a lifetime of pothole filled roads, everyone climbs up to the tower to get a view of the three countries and the sea beyond. It is truly a magnificent view. We take more pictures and then quickly head back to the bus. I am dreading the thought of the return ride in the “bouncy buggy” but fall fast asleep and awake to find that I have had my photograph snapped with my head back and mouth slightly open. After the hours of bouncing and jerking, my head feels like its coming unhinged from my neck!

Night has fallen by the time we arrive in Wangchung where we drive to the restaurant to meet the WLH people. They are all there and boy are they glad to see us. You’d think we had been gone a year instead of a day! After greetings and hugs all around, we settle down for a dinner of what I later learn is their favorite food in all the world, skewered lamb and beef. The meat is brought out on small skewers with about 5 chunks a skewer. There are 2-3 roasting pits at each table, so we get to roast our own meat. It is delicious! Jae Young dares me to eat 30 skewers of meat. I challenge her back but she begs off on a weak stomach. Along with all the side dishes, I am quickly getting full but the WLH ladies simply won’t stop feeding us. Every time I protest I am full, they just say “Manni mogoyo” which means “eat a lot”. I try to say “I did eat a lot. I am very full” but they aren’t having any of it. And Jae Young is egging them on, when finally I declare “that’s it, I’m done” and throw in the towel at 20. Despite the protests and attempts to drag me back to the table, I resolutely walk away and go around to the other tables to see how the kids are faring. They are still going strong, eating away as if their lives depended on it. I am totally blown away when I hear how much they have consumed. 30, 35, 40, up to 52 skewers of meat have been eaten by one person! The top eater is 13 year old Yoo Nan, the tomboyish girl who is fiercely competitive and does her utmost to not be beaten in anything. At one table, some of our party is sampling roasted worm cocoon. They declare it to be yummy but I think it is mostly bravado. After dinner is finally finished, we leave (or rather roll out) the restaurant, and say our goodbyes to the WLH people, then walk back to our hotel. On the way back, I hide and then jump out, scaring several of our group. Laughter and silliness are rampant tonight because our spirits are so high from exciting travel, good food, and great friends.

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